Redchurch Street used to be a grotty shortcut between Brick Lane and Shoreditch High Street. Recently, though, it’s dusted itself off and had a facelift. There’s Terence Conran’s new shrine to good taste and fat wallets – Boundary Project – a textbook modern British cheffy empire – all vacuum-wrapped blackface lamb and Oxford marmalade and Welsh goat’s cheese.
And just down the road from this is Walluc – one of those candlelit places you peer into while looking for an acceptably quiet bar and go: oooh that looks nice! while up ahead other members of the party get tetchy for their next pint.
Anyway the menu mentioned raclette and fondue, and as it’s getting warmer and lighter by the day I thought I’d give it a go as a farewell to winter stodge.
The room is ramshackle and charming, all candles and shabby mismatched chairs and old mirrors. They serve a hybrid Alpine style of food – French and Italian – though judging by reviews on websites the French is their strength.
We ordered the cheese fondue, which arrived in a floral enamel saucepan – a pale yellow soup of cheese and wine, with a bowl of crisp lettuce and a basket of dry bread cubes to dip into with a little fork. It’s delectable but not something you’d have again for a while, unless you’d been skiing in the French Alps or something and really worked up a ferocious appetite. It didn’t stop us from ordering dessert though, tiny chocolate fondants, which were also good. All up, with two glasses of wine, it came to around £30. There were a few other couples, and a room out the back that was keeping the waitress busy too. Service was initially prompt but slowed riiiiight down after the fondue was delivered… we weren’t in a hurry, but still….
Apart from that though, it is a unique restaurant and seems to have a fairly decent following – it would be cosy on a cold winter’s night, too.
40 Redchurch St E2 London
Tuesday to Saturday 6.00pm/11.30pm
Sunday 12.00am – 11.30pm